Ecu on Suzuki Swift M15A

Hi mate - yes you can use the existing narrow-band sensor to tune for 14.7 AFR, but maybe not a good idea for turbo engines as things could go wrong pretty quickly (you probably know this already).

Just adjust the volumetric efficiency table (VE mode) or air flow meter curve (AFM mode) to get the correct 14.7 at all loads. You can do this by looking at the narrow band sensor voltage on a volt-meter, or look at the closed loop feedback if you prefer.

Then you can enter your desired high load AFR targets for more power.

Cheers,

Matthew

I have moved along with the wiring diagram and hopefully answered questions 1 and 4 myself and have attached the more up to date diagram.

Hi Peter,

Great - happy to help I have a soft spot for the Swift having owned one a few years back :-)


Questions:-
1. Is Pin BH1 from the ECU pin out list battery voltage or does this need to be a regulated supply?

12V power is switched power. There is no battery voltage input - 12V power must always be ignition switched through an external relay. I see from the wiring diagram for your harness that would be the +B line. It is correct how you are powering up the main relay through the power relay circuit but please read the errata for Rabbit ECU I will make sure that is on the support documents page tonight.


2. I am have some difficulty relating the circuit diagram and the PCB connector PIN out list. Am I missing something or are these different versions?
Correct for the large connector 'A' the pin numbers are transposed in the schematic - this is an error. So Pin AA1 is labelled AA4, Pin AA2 is labelled AA3, etc. I will fix this at some point - but you can trust the Excel pinout.

3. Is there more information on wiring as I don't know what some of the on outs are for the O2 sensor?
For the O2 sensor, there is no plug and play on the PCB. To keep the cost down the intention is to have all these extra inputs on a low cost daughter-board early 2019. For now you can easily add O2 sensor by adding a TO92 transistor and a resistor to the N1000 connector on the PCB - 5 min job please see the errata.

4. I have a pre and post Catalytic converter O2 sensor, do I use the pre-catalytic sensor?
Yes please use the pre.

5. Can I use the knock sensor, if so would it be an analog input?
No, at this point this will come with the daughter-board.

6. For an IAC valve would I use a low side driver or a push-pull output?
From the diagram I would say low side driver.

7. I believe I need to use two push-pulls to modulate a VVT cam, does this sound right? I can supply extra info if required and need to look into it further myself.
I can't really tell from the diagram but I suspect (and remembering a distinct 'comes on cam' rough switch driving the ZC21) that the VVT is a simple on off type not infinitely variable. Does that sound right? In any case, I think just supplying power to the VVT valve and modulating the low side will be OK.

8. Do I need to supply a barometric sensor or is this not required?
I haven't added any baro support yet. Feel free to wire it up for the future :-)

Can I attach a copy of my wiring diagram?
Sure thanks I got the first but the second update was low res you mind sending again? My email is matthew@mdac.com.au

On a side note thanks also for the great crank and cam trigger info. If you read the Rabbit ECU User guide mdac.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Rabbit-ECU-User-Guide-Base-Configuration-V1.0.pdf you will see this is going to be a custom trigger (section 10).

Am happy to code it up doesn't look too complex might take a couple of weeks though. Does this engine have a timing mark at all?


Thanks Matthew.

I will have a look on the weekend

Hello Mathew, I was going through the errata notes and noticed the links required for the injector drivers, as I am using four I believe I require two links (ignition is fine as I have 2 lost spark coils), my question is and I assume it will, disable the corresponding analog input? if so is there any other work around as I require 7 analog inputs?

PS:  I opened my previous wiring diagram and I was quite readable, do you want me to send an update through? I do a lot of this in paint and resize to get under the 1 Mb limit so, there is probably a better way, it just what I know!

Thanks for your help.

My next challenge is working out how I associate each input/out put to my devices in the software, its all a bit new to me! 

Hi Peter,

Thanks that's great info for the crank sensor!

Am hoping to code that this weekend it looks to be relatively straight forward.

For the wire links yes that's correct you lose the associated analog input when the pin is re-purposed as timed output.

One alternative is if you are handy with enamelled wire and solder right onto the QFP Arduino micro you can use EXTINT it has timer ability.

I do this for my V8 I need 8 timer channels - can add to errata sheet I guess if you're keen.

Also I need to update the pin out sheet - bad news - Analog 6 pin BA2 you can see in the schematic is hard-wired as battery voltage so you can't use that pin.

One possible work around would be to run batch-fire injection. That way you wouldn't need to make the wire links and lose analog inputs. Connect together two injectors off one injector driver output. Potentially you can run semi-sequential this way with one injector ending pre-valve opening and its semi-sequential pair ending 180 crank degrees prior to that.

For the VVT yes I think it will be OK to run a continuous variable VVT phaser from the motor driver output. There is no code supporting that yet but I am keen to add it. So the phaser just advances with a duty >> 50% and retards for duty << 50?

Is it closed loop control you are after?

On a side note I haven't looked a whole lot at your wiring schematic but will do before the weekend.

Hope this all helps, cheers


Matthew

Hi Mathew,


I want to go down the sequential path so I will go with the links and figure the rest out as I go, I am thinking of closed loop,
but my empasis is on power not economy so would it be easier to get your wide band tuner and do it that way or do you think I should keep going with the narrow band closed loop senario?.

Comparing your notes in the errata on the Arduino A4 & A6 are linked as shown, Therefore am I correct in assuming the following?

A4 -> A7 (ECU Host) -> SIG_AN3 -> SIGIO_AN3 -> AA2 Transposed to AA3

A6 -> A5 (ECU Host) -> SIG_AN4 -> SIGIO_AN4 -> AA1 Transposed to AA4

I have moved my analog pull ups to AA1 & AA2, let me know if I am on the right boat with this?


This is all that is mentioned about the VVT valve operation in the manual, I think we would be safe to assume no more than 50% above and below for this!
Oil Control Valve
The oil control valve switches and adjusts the hydraulic
pressure applied to the cam timing sprocket by moving
the spool valve (1) according to the duty pulse signals
output from the ECM. By this operation, the intake valve
timing is varied continuously. Signals output from the
ECM are the duty pulse of about 240 Hz.

Do you have a pin out recommendation for the VVT valve drive and will I need a driver transistor?

Also when I said "project car" it is the car in my avatar and it is a registered weekly driver, so I will need to figure out fuel and speedo gauges at some stage, I thought a Andriod tablet migth replace the existing cluster.

Thanks for your prompt action and on going help, I hope it pays off with so Swift guys getting onto this as there is precious little in the way of tuning help he in Australia!