cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Dec 2, 2018 22:25:40 GMT
Hello, I am keen to replace my ecu on a 2010 Suzuki Swift M15A. I have some skills but justwant to be sure I get what I need. My questions are will I be able to use the existing O2 sensor to tune the vehicle or will I need to get the GP-meter 6? I beleive all I need is the Rabbit ECU and an Arduino Due as I am going to buy an old ecu and use the case and connectors so I can just swap out the old ecu and in with the Rabbit?
Thanks for any advise.
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Post by Admin on Dec 3, 2018 10:57:30 GMT
Hi mate - yes you can use the existing narrow-band sensor to tune for 14.7 AFR, but maybe not a good idea for turbo engines as things could go wrong pretty quickly (you probably know this already).
Just adjust the volumetric efficiency table (VE mode) or air flow meter curve (AFM mode) to get the correct 14.7 at all loads. You can do this by looking at the narrow band sensor voltage on a volt-meter, or look at the closed loop feedback if you prefer.
Then you can enter your desired high load AFR targets for more power.
Cheers,
Matthew
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Dec 27, 2018 2:34:02 GMT
Hi Mathew, I have purchased a Rabbit ECU and an Arduino DUE, I am really impressed with the PCB and what you have done from the open source and cost point of view! But alas I am a little stuck on a couple of minor issues and was hoping for some help as I am super keen to get this going. This is my list of questions, sorry to be a newbie burden! Questions:- 1. Is Pin BH1 from the ECU pin out list battery voltage or does this need to be a regulated supply? 2. I am have some difficulty relating the circuit diagram and the PCB connector PIN out list. Am I missing something or are these different versions? 3. Is there more information on wiring as I don't know what some of the on outs are for the O2 sensor? 4. I have a pre and post Catalytic converter O2 sensor, do I use the pre-catalytic sensor? 5. Can I use the knock sensor, if so would it be an analog input? 6. For an IAC valve would I use a low side driver or a push-pull output? 7. I believe I need to use two push-pulls to modulate a VVT cam, does this sound right? I can supply extra info if required and need to look into it further myself. 8. Do I need to supply a barometric sensor or is this not required? Can I attach a copy of my wiring diagram? Thanks Peter.
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Dec 27, 2018 22:48:53 GMT
I have moved along with the wiring diagram and hopefully answered questions 1 and 4 myself and have attached the more up to date diagram.
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Dec 27, 2018 22:53:25 GMT
I have also found a picture in the manual for the ZC21 M15A Suzuki motor of the crank angle sensor, it appears to be 10 teeth with 2 missing, 10 teeth with 2 missing, 10 teeth with 2 missing, making 36 segments. and a 2-2-1-1 for the camshaft position.
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Post by Admin on Dec 29, 2018 23:10:20 GMT
Hi Peter, Great - happy to help I have a soft spot for the Swift having owned one a few years back :-) Questions:- 1. Is Pin BH1 from the ECU pin out list battery voltage or does this need to be a regulated supply? 12V power is switched power. There is no battery voltage input - 12V power must always be ignition switched through an external relay. I see from the wiring diagram for your harness that would be the +B line. It is correct how you are powering up the main relay through the power relay circuit but please read the errata for Rabbit ECU I will make sure that is on the support documents page tonight. 2. I am have some difficulty relating the circuit diagram and the PCB connector PIN out list. Am I missing something or are these different versions? Correct for the large connector 'A' the pin numbers are transposed in the schematic - this is an error. So Pin AA1 is labelled AA4, Pin AA2 is labelled AA3, etc. I will fix this at some point - but you can trust the Excel pinout. 3. Is there more information on wiring as I don't know what some of the on outs are for the O2 sensor? For the O2 sensor, there is no plug and play on the PCB. To keep the cost down the intention is to have all these extra inputs on a low cost daughter-board early 2019. For now you can easily add O2 sensor by adding a TO92 transistor and a resistor to the N1000 connector on the PCB - 5 min job please see the errata. 4. I have a pre and post Catalytic converter O2 sensor, do I use the pre-catalytic sensor? Yes please use the pre. 5. Can I use the knock sensor, if so would it be an analog input? No, at this point this will come with the daughter-board. 6. For an IAC valve would I use a low side driver or a push-pull output? From the diagram I would say low side driver. 7. I believe I need to use two push-pulls to modulate a VVT cam, does this sound right? I can supply extra info if required and need to look into it further myself. I can't really tell from the diagram but I suspect (and remembering a distinct 'comes on cam' rough switch driving the ZC21) that the VVT is a simple on off type not infinitely variable. Does that sound right? In any case, I think just supplying power to the VVT valve and modulating the low side will be OK. 8. Do I need to supply a barometric sensor or is this not required? I haven't added any baro support yet. Feel free to wire it up for the future :-) Can I attach a copy of my wiring diagram? Sure thanks I got the first but the second update was low res you mind sending again? My email is matthew@mdac.com.au On a side note thanks also for the great crank and cam trigger info. If you read the Rabbit ECU User guide mdac.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Rabbit-ECU-User-Guide-Base-Configuration-V1.0.pdf you will see this is going to be a custom trigger (section 10). Am happy to code it up doesn't look too complex might take a couple of weeks though. Does this engine have a timing mark at all? Thanks Matthew.
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Post by Admin on Jan 2, 2019 23:32:25 GMT
Hi Peter I attached a photo of the M15 crank with reluctor wheel attached it seems to show a conventional 36-1 pattern. Is it possible you can look at your reluctor wheel to confirm? I can see the 2-2-1-1 cam sensor online that is correct. Best regards, Matthew
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Jan 3, 2019 9:37:06 GMT
I will have a look on the weekend
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Jan 4, 2019 8:50:01 GMT
Ok Mathew, Its not what either of us could ascertain from the sketchy pictures we had! I removed the crankshaft position sensor and set the engine to TDC, the sensor centre was between two teeth, counting teeth from then went 12 ,2 missing, 1, 2 missing, 13, 2 missing, 4. S0 that makes it 16-2-1-2-13-2 for a total of 36 position or 10 degrees resolution. I counted them four times to be sure!
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Jan 5, 2019 0:10:51 GMT
Hello Mathew, I was going through the errata notes and noticed the links required for the injector drivers, as I am using four I believe I require two links (ignition is fine as I have 2 lost spark coils), my question is and I assume it will, disable the corresponding analog input? if so is there any other work around as I require 7 analog inputs? PS: I opened my previous wiring diagram and I was quite readable, do you want me to send an update through? I do a lot of this in paint and resize to get under the 1 Mb limit so, there is probably a better way, it just what I know! Thanks for your help. My next challenge is working out how I associate each input/out put to my devices in the software, its all a bit new to me!
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Jan 5, 2019 0:48:08 GMT
Hello Mathew,
Sorry about all the questions, am getting there!
I want to run a PWM signal to a hydraulic VVT actuator, can I use the spare ignition drives I am not using and change the modulation frequency independently of the ignition? Or if not can I use a low side relay drive as a PWM output? I need to modulate around the 240HZ mark and above and below to alter the advance/retard on the cam.
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Post by Admin on Jan 7, 2019 13:43:57 GMT
Hi Peter,
Thanks that's great info for the crank sensor!
Am hoping to code that this weekend it looks to be relatively straight forward.
For the wire links yes that's correct you lose the associated analog input when the pin is re-purposed as timed output.
One alternative is if you are handy with enamelled wire and solder right onto the QFP Arduino micro you can use EXTINT it has timer ability.
I do this for my V8 I need 8 timer channels - can add to errata sheet I guess if you're keen.
Also I need to update the pin out sheet - bad news - Analog 6 pin BA2 you can see in the schematic is hard-wired as battery voltage so you can't use that pin.
One possible work around would be to run batch-fire injection. That way you wouldn't need to make the wire links and lose analog inputs. Connect together two injectors off one injector driver output. Potentially you can run semi-sequential this way with one injector ending pre-valve opening and its semi-sequential pair ending 180 crank degrees prior to that.
For the VVT yes I think it will be OK to run a continuous variable VVT phaser from the motor driver output. There is no code supporting that yet but I am keen to add it. So the phaser just advances with a duty >> 50% and retards for duty << 50?
Is it closed loop control you are after?
On a side note I haven't looked a whole lot at your wiring schematic but will do before the weekend.
Hope this all helps, cheers
Matthew
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Post by Admin on Jan 13, 2019 2:26:37 GMT
Hi Peter,
Sorry for the delay. The connections look fine just a few points:
AA1 - MAF - is OK but pull-up resistor might affect the output AC2 - E23-2 not needed there is no battery support using Arduino Due AE3 - C37-10 this is UEGO circuit only - please connect narrow band sensor to AC3 for a mod to be added to Errata shortly AF2 - no need to ground this - is a virtual ground supplied for wide band circuit only BA3 - fuel level sensor is this needed for a project car? Driving car yes I guess so... BA1 - ECT needs to be on AA1 - AA4 for the pull-up resistor function
recommend analog channels
C37-26 MAF BA1 C37-25 IAT (requires pull-up resistor channel) AA2 C37-53 MAP BA3 C37-54 TPS BA4 C37-24 CTS (requires pull-up resistor channel) AA3 E23-24 do not connect for the moment it will take some work to get the CAN output to work anyway...
With these analog connections you can wire the supplement timer links and still retain 4 cyl sequential injection.
For the custom trigger coding I am just testing it now will produce an M15A binary firmware the at you can program right into the Arduino Due using SAM-BA pr Bossa.
Cheers,
Matthew
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cobbie
New Member
Suzuki M15A Project Car
Posts: 10
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Post by cobbie on Jan 14, 2019 1:59:19 GMT
Hi Mathew,
I want to go down the sequential path so I will go with the links and figure the rest out as I go, I am thinking of closed loop, but my empasis is on power not economy so would it be easier to get your wide band tuner and do it that way or do you think I should keep going with the narrow band closed loop senario?.
Comparing your notes in the errata on the Arduino A4 & A6 are linked as shown, Therefore am I correct in assuming the following?
A4 -> A7 (ECU Host) -> SIG_AN3 -> SIGIO_AN3 -> AA2 Transposed to AA3
A6 -> A5 (ECU Host) -> SIG_AN4 -> SIGIO_AN4 -> AA1 Transposed to AA4
I have moved my analog pull ups to AA1 & AA2, let me know if I am on the right boat with this?
This is all that is mentioned about the VVT valve operation in the manual, I think we would be safe to assume no more than 50% above and below for this! Oil Control Valve The oil control valve switches and adjusts the hydraulic pressure applied to the cam timing sprocket by moving the spool valve (1) according to the duty pulse signals output from the ECM. By this operation, the intake valve timing is varied continuously. Signals output from the ECM are the duty pulse of about 240 Hz.
Do you have a pin out recommendation for the VVT valve drive and will I need a driver transistor?
Also when I said "project car" it is the car in my avatar and it is a registered weekly driver, so I will need to figure out fuel and speedo gauges at some stage, I thought a Andriod tablet migth replace the existing cluster.
Thanks for your prompt action and on going help, I hope it pays off with so Swift guys getting onto this as there is precious little in the way of tuning help he in Australia!
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Post by Admin on Jan 15, 2019 13:17:46 GMT
Hi Peter, Sure the wide band tuner is a good option also. I've been meaning to link it to the Rabbit ECU over CAN now I have an excuse to do that! To be honest for the analog inputs it just gets confusing referring to the schematics. Some of the internal symbols are really just intended as net-list symbols and aren't very consistent. Lesson learned there :-( Fortunately the Arduino Due numbering is consistent with the 'Internal ECUHost' numbering that appears on the header pin-out. Arduino - ECUHost A0 - EH_IO_ADD1 A1 - EH_IO_ADD2 A2 - EH_IO_ADD3 A3 - EH_IO_ADD4 A4 - EH_IO_ADD5 A5 - EH_IO_ADD6 A6 - EH_IO_ADD7 A7 - EH_IO_ADD8 A8 - EH_IO_ADD9 A9 - EH_IO_ADD10 A10 - EH_IO_ADD11 A11 - EH_IO_ADD12 The last 8 of these appear at the header plug AA1 - EH_IO_ADD8 - Arduino A7 - Recommend linking for injection timer AA2 - EH_IO_ADD7 - Arduino A6 - Recommend connecting to IAT because needs pull-up AA3 - EH_IO_ADD6 - Arduino A5 - Recommend connecting to CTS because needs pull-up AA4 - EH_IO_ADD5 - Arduino A4 - Recommend linking for injection timer BA1 - EH_IO_ADD12 - Arduino A11 - Recommend connecting to MAF pull-up not required BA2 - EH_IO_ADD11 - Arduino A10 - Leave unconnected - used internally for battery voltage measurement BA3 - EH_IO_ADD10 - Arduino A9 - Recommend connecting to MAP pull-up not required BA4 - EH_IO_ADD9 - Arduino A8 - Recommend connecting to TPS pull-up not required For the VVT solenoid I think you can just wire it to the two remaining motor driver channels at AH3 and AH4. The motor drivers are push-pull so the polarity and frequency can be sorted later easily and you don't need a driver transistor. OK that's fine about the gauges etc - is the project car a unique creation or a kit of some kind (forgive my ignorance lol). When you are ready I put a starting point binary file here: mdac.com.au/application-packs/Running the installer will put the firmware in the c:\mdac\ecuhost\firmwares folder. Cheers, Matthew
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